By Christian Eedes, 15 August 2023
I don’t like disagreeing with Eben Sadie about wine matters. If ever I’ve ventured to do so (about the iniquity of heavy bottles, for example), he’s usually managed to deploy the results of a great deal of research and understanding on his part (into the glass-manufacturing process, the nature of recycling, shipping costs, and whatever) in such a way that I have had, at least, to radically modify my own position.
But I persist in strongly disagreeing with Eben about the role of wards in the South African Wine of Origin system. In one of his ever-interesting impromptu digressions while presenting the latest Sadie Family Wines releases to a a small group of wine-business people, he waxed very scathing about wards (unlike, say, classic European appellations). He pointed out that many are not even used by the producers that had motivated for them and are essentially irrelevant; many of them are drawn up for political rather than terroir considerations (I would quibble there); some are home to just one or two producers so can’t ever gain meaningful traction; above all, most wine-buyers, especially foreign ones, have no recognition of ward names – finding only the larger WO areas of significance (especially districts), etc.
I’ll come back to some Sadie bottlings, but note first that Eben specifically disparaged even the three Hemel-en-Aarde wards, which many people (including me) would consider the most triumphant justification yet of the ward system. I think that virtually all the Hemel-en-Aarde producers make use of the wards in giving origins – rather than the district, Walker Bay. Storm Wines uses all three for their pinots, and there are consistent differences emerging between them, which can only tend to confirm the usefulness of the divisions. And in fact, from the continuing reference to the wards, wine lovers, along with wine growers, are encouraged to gain an understanding of the complex influences of soil, slope and meso-climate in the area.
What a major loss it would be to abandon the use of ward names in Walker Bay and have all the wines from Hemel-en-Aarde, Bot River, Stanford and Sondagskloof offering themselves as an undistinguished mass – at least on their labels. Not to mention the monopole winery on the patch of coastal limestone soil making up Springfontein Rim ward, Springfontein – it may be alone, but the wines are distinctively teroir-reflective and deserving of the official recognition of their unique origin.
Wards are drawn up largely by scientists, according to proper terroir principles of a distinctive unity of relevant features, largely soil and climate. Producers or groups of producers initiate the study, and I daresay not all requests for new wards are granted. The Hemel-en-Aarde people in fact originally asked for a single ward, but were persuaded of the justification for three by the investigators.
A few wards are essentially standalone, like Bamboes Bay – like Constantia used to be before the district of Cape Town was constructed around it to also include very different Durbanville, Hout Bay and Philadelphia. But most wards fit into districts (like Robertson, Elgin and Stellenbosch), which have a much vaguer unity, and these fit into regions (Breede River Valley, Cape South Coast, Coastal), which are drawn up to very broad geographical considerations. Recently some new large elaborations have been allowed for – “overarching regions” (only Cape Coast so far) and “subregions” (only Cape West Coast, overlapping with Swartland) –, but nothing much has yet been done about these. Basically, it’s like a nest of Russian dolls, though some of the dolls don’t fit nicely, and some rattle around plaintively. (See the Sawis website, or Platter’s Guide, for maps and lists of the different appellations.)
To continue reading article Click Here...
Discover the importance of wards for fine South African wine.
Welcome to the ultimate destination for exclusive wine tours in Stellenbosch! Experience a lavish escape like no other as we take you on a bespoke and private journey from Cape Town to the heart of South Africa's winelands. Our specialized guided tours offer an unparalleled adventure tailored to your preferences.
Delight in the finest wine tastings as our expert guides lead you through the hidden gems of Stellenbosch, where each vintage is a testament to artistry and craftsmanship. Immerse yourself in luxury amidst breathtaking landscapes, savoring the finest wines this enchanting region has to offer. Don't miss this extraordinary opportunity to indulge in an exclusive wine adventure, creating treasured memories for a lifetime. Book your exclusive wine tour in Stellenbosch today! Join us on a private tour and discover the importance of wards for fine South African Wine!
#WineTourStellenbosch #StellenboschWineExperience #StellenboschVineyardTours #WineTastingStellenbosch #StellenboschWineryVisits #StellenboschWineCulture #WineTrailStellenbosch #StellenboschWineJourney #StellenboschWineAdventures #ExploreStellenboschWines #StellenboschVinoTour #StellenboschWineCountry #StellenboschWineLovers #StellenboschWineTradition #StellenboschWineExploration #StellenboschWineRoutes #StellenboschWineMagic
Comentários